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I found with joy that the traditional Indian blend podi – a rough grind of fiery, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

14 ounces waxy potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic pieces, skinned and shredded
1-inch piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml mild oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then drain them and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for a short while, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the spice seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then gently stir in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to barbecue sticks, then place on a tray and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Turn on the grill to its highest setting, then cook the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a variable duration depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more sea salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.