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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.